TT 520 

, U45 
Copy 1 



WELANDER'S 




Published by 
A. W. WELANDER, Chicago, I1L 

Address, Lock Box 390. 

AUTHOR OF WELANDERS PERFECTED SYSTEM. THE SEAMLESS NOVELTY 

CO A i SYSTEM, AND WELANDER'S PERFECTED TAILOR 

SYSTEM FOR DRESS CUTTING. 



preface 



*• *r *r 



Thifl work on cutting has been compiled for the self instruction of 
a complete course in the higher art of Ladies' Cutting, as done by the 
professional Laities' Tailors in all parts of the world, and its aim is to 
advance the cutting profession amongst the Ladies' Tailors and Dress- 
maker.- where the author thinks there is room for improvement. This 
method embodies the highest grade of Tailor Systems for the cutting of 
Ladies' garments made by Ladies' Tailors and Dressmakers, and will 
secure a reputation amongst the Dressmakers long in the business, and 
help others to the point of honor they are laboring for. It is simplicity 
and practicability, and anyone who can read can obtain the knowledge 
which makes them the most successful cutters of Ladies' Garments. 

I have been in continuous study and practice at the trade from 
a mere boy up to the present date, and am using this method 
in my every day practice in Ladies' Tailoring. The merits of this work 
are so thoroughly tested that I have no doubt but it will insure the most 
successful result to all who giv< it a trial. In studying this work, to 
be convinced of it- merit-, the author thinks the readers will be repaid 
for their trouble and give to the author this satisfaction out of his labor 
in endeavoring to simplify and advance a profession which so many 
labor in vain to accomplish. 

Very truly your-. 

THE AUTHOR 



Preparatorp 



To the drafting of the Diagrams contained and explained herein I will 
illustrate the instruments necessary to produce same by. All the cutter 
needs is a common Tailor's square, or my stick, which is made expressly 
with the divisions on both sides for the drafting of this system, and 
when having this stick with the divisions on, all that is necessary is a 
common, plain wooden square, to get the lines perpendicular and paral- 
lel when drafting, and use the stick when a division is wanted. This 
stick can always be obtained at my office, or agents, by addressing them 
or me, and the price is very small, only 25 cents. The stick will last 
for years if not broken by accident. The remittance should always 
accompany the order, and 25 one-cent stamps will be accepted as 
payment for same. In drafting, a paper pattern should always be cut 
first, which takes but a few minutes, and is the greatest economy in 
cutting better grade goods. If you have a paper pattern you can cut : 
direct on the cloth, save one fitting and receive much better result on 
the making of better garments, which this system is adopted for. Work 
and time can be saved in the fitting of garments cut by this system. If 
measures are taken correctly and cut as to directions, there is hardly 
any fitting to be done, and after a very short practice with the system 
many garments can be made up without fitting at all, if so desired. 
This is done every week by the author of this system, and others can do 
the same by following the instructions herein set forth. 

The measures used in cutting this system are very simple after 
knowing how they are taken, but may be new to some. I use but few. 
The upper and lower shoulder measure is not used by many, and, there- 
fore, may state that these measures are by far the easiest to both take 
and use in cutting ladies' garments. I have found them to be. the 
most successful. Upper shoulder measure is taken from the center 
seam of back at collar and in front of arm under arm and back to start- 
ing point moderately snug. Lower shoulder measure is taken from 
center seam of back opposite top of shoulder, in front of arm. under arm 
back to starting point fairly snug. These are tin only new measures 
used. Few in number and simple to take. A strap measure is used 
for a stooping or over-erect figure, but if fitting is done, it is not neces- 
sary to either take or use the same. 



Welaxder's Perfected Tailor System for Dress Cutting. 



CUT OF MEASURE. 




YVelaxder"s Perfected Tateor System foe Dress Cutting. 



explanation of measuring. 



All that is needed to take these measures, is a common tape meas- 
ure with inches on. First measure taken is strap, second is upper 
shoulder measure, third is lower shoulder, fourth is bust, fifth is waist, 
sixth is length of waist, seventh length of sleeve, eighth is width of 
cuff, elbow, and collar. 

Strap and upper shoulder measure is taken from the neck where 
seam of coat collar shall be. Make a mark at E, bottom of scve. 

Xo. 1. "W to E is strap, giving stooping or over-erect form. E 
is bottom of scye (figure 2). 

Xo. 2. H around in front under arm; close to arm, back to H, is 
upper shoulder measure. Take this moderately snug (figure 1). 

Xo. 3. Gr is middle of back, around in front under arm; close lo 
arm, back to (r is lower shoulder measure. Take this fairly snug (fig. 1). 

Xo. 4. E to F (figure 2), and E to F (figure 3) is arOund largest 
part of bust. Taken natural. 

Xo. 5. X to O (figure 2), and Xto (figure 3), is around waist, 
taken moderately snug- 

Xo. 6. A to (figure 3 , is length of waist. 

Xo. 7. E to P (figure 2), is length of sleeve. 

Xo. 8. P around to P is cuff. 

Xo. 9. Half way between E to P is elbow. 

Xo. 10. W to Z (figure 2) and W to Z (figure 3; is around collar. 

Xo. 11. U. to V is length of waist under arm. which is used as 
test measure for rniht length of >\ai-t over the hip. (Figure 1). 

Xo. 12. G-. to H. is taken as a test meas ire for width of back, 
but is not used in cu'ting this system. (Figure 3). 

These measures are all that are necessary for cutting this system, 
but additional measures may be taken if so desired. Should the system 
wished to bo used on a longer garment, like a jacket or cloak, take a 
measure from A to C for length wanted, and an additii nal measure over 
the hips at S, i> (figure 2) and S, T (figure 3). If a loni cloak is 
wanted take a mea-ure A to D. full length. For extra fullness of 
large sleeve take a measure around 1 iriiest.part of top of sleeve. 

Meas ires for a skirt are taken from to D (figure 3) and Q to R 
(figure 2) and from Y to bottom (figure 1). 

This will complete the measuring, and if ,taktn correctly will give 
satisfactory results in all eases. As measuring is the principal thing in 
cutting by a re i.ible met od. therefore, the measures should betaken 
with cart-, and the cutting will bring better results. 



Wf.i.ani)Ki:'s Perfected Tailor System fob Dress Citttixg. 



DIAGRAM A. 



Welaxder's Perfected Tatlor System foe Dress Cutting-. 

DIAGRAM A. 

The Waist, How to Draft. 



Measures used in drafting this pattern are: Upper shoulder 25, 
Lower shoulder 24. Bust 38, Waist 28, Length of waist 16)4. 

To start drafting use a square and a sheet of paper. Draw a line 
perpendicular at A 12 and A E. When this is done, apply the upper 
shoulder measure from A to C 3£ of .same. B is half way "between. 
Draw these two lines perpendicular with A E. 

C to 15 is }{ of lower shoulder measure. K is 3^" of Bust measure. 
Go forward 1 inch from K to IS. and hack 1 inch from K to 17, and 15 
to 0. and O to I is 1 inch. Draw lines and 17 perpendicular with C 
line to P and 12. draw a line from 12 through K to V and W for front. 
Xoiv comes the divisions on the stick or square, which ever the 
cutter may use. A to 2 is }i of distance C to K. P to L is 1-6 of dis- 
tance C to K. 12 to X is V 8 ' of distance C to K or 1-6. "both can he used 
with satisfactory result. Place stick or square on 2 and I and draw a 
short line at 3. Then draw a line from M through 3 to 4. perpendic- 
ular with line C. 3 to 4 is 1}4 inches. Draw line from 2 to 4 and 2 
to }{ inch helow A. 4 to 5 is V , or the same width as A to 2. 

Place stick, or square, on L and B. and draw line to Q, width of 
shoulder, which is the same as from 2 to 4. When this is done take 
the chalk and shape around arm scye as Diagram illustrates from 
Q to 15. and 14 and 3 to 14. and L to X. If there is a measure around 
the neck use this from A to 2, and from L around to X. and shape X 
to IS in front. Mark below A % inch and from this mark to D, 
length of waist, draw this line to V. D to E is IK inches, or what- 
ever length is desired. D to 6 is % inch, 6 to 7 is 1%, or whatever 
width is desired. 7 to X is 1 inch, X to 8 is % of distance C to K, or 
the same as from A to 2. S to 9 is 1 inch. 9 to 10 is the same as from 
X to 8. 10 to 11 is one inch. Place the stick, or square, at 3 and 6 
and draw a line. 28 to 13 is x i of distance C to K. 13 to 14 is 3£, or 
the same as 9 to 10. 17 to S is 2 inches. Place stick, or square on 28 
and S. and draw a line. Divide 18 to 15 into 3 parts for the darts. 18 
to S is on line }£ of 18 to 15. S to F is .he same. Xow draw a line 
parallel with the front K, from S to R and take out 1 inch and draw 
line from F to H. and take out 1 inch closing R and H together as taste 
and style prevails. If a measure is taken under arm from 14 to 11, 
apply this and see if the waist is long enough, and then shape bottom 
as wanted, according to style and wish. V to W is 1}4 inches, or 
whatever desired. Draw a line from 28 to X. 13 to S. 13 to 9. 14 to 10, 
14 to 11. and curve seams a little if needed. Shape from 5 to 28, and 
G to 2S. Take out between 5 to G % inch, and go forward 5 to G J^ 
inch. This finishes the draft for a waist, and it is now rftady to cut 
out and to be placed on the lining where seams are allowed on each 
side the pattern, as the pattern is cut to the actual measure and to be 
sewed in the chalk mark. Whatever allowed outside will be for 
seams and outlet. Apply waist measure from 6 to V. deducting what 
is taken out between each piece and at darts. Should measure in- 
crease in front of line at V mark in front of line at V, and divide this 
in 3 parts, adding 2 parts in front of line at V and 1 part in the sides 
equal to each seam at waist. Draw a line in front parallel with line 
K W. and shape front over bust down so as to retain the shape and 
stvle of front. 



Wei.axder's Perfected Tailor System for Dress Cutting. 



DIAGRAM B. 




Welaxdee*s Perfected Tailor System for Dress Cutting. 

DIAGRAM B. 

The narrow and medium close fitting sleeve, bow to draft. 



Measures for this sleeve are as follows: Arm scye 18-elbow 15, 
cuff 9, extra fullness on bis; sleeve 22, length 18. 



In drafting the sleeve use measure around arm scye from 4 to Q. 



To start drafting use a square and a sheet of paper. Draw a line 
perpendicular at A to 5 and 5 to K. 5 to A is half of arm scye. Draw 
line perpendicular with A, 5, to M. A to B is 1 inch. A to C is one- 
fourth of arm scye and one-fourth inch. Square lines B and C. Star 
is half way between C and 9. Square line to half way between A and 
5. B to is 2 inches. 9 to 8 is 1 inch. Now take tape measure in 
one hand and a chalk in tho other and start with the chalk at B and 
sweep to Z by star, top of sleeve, and draw line from Z to 8. Shape 
under sleeve from to 8. 9 to K is length of sleeve. L is half way be- 
tween 9 and K. 9 to 10 should be half way between 9 to L. Now place 
square on star between F C and at K and draw a line to S. Star at S to K 
is half the width of cuff. M to L is half of elbow.' M to N is one inch, M 
to 1 1 is one inch, star to S is one inch. Star to line is 1 inch. Now draw 
lines from 9 to L, L to K, to N, N to inside at^tar, M to star, S to 11, 9 
to F is 1 inch. 9 to lina in front is 1 inch. Draw line from F to L, and shape 
line in front of 9 to 10. For the large top sleeve sweep from S to R by 
B. Now measure the width of under sleeve from to F and 5 to R, 
then divide 5 to R in two, which gives star inside of B, and sweep 5 to 
R by star inside of B. Shape from R to 11 for elbow, and top to Z, 
as per illustration. Shorten K to P f inch, as the line curves from 9 
to K, it lengthens the sleeve this much. This completes sleeve. Cut 
out the big sleeve and trace the under sleeve onto a piece of paper, and 
cut out the lining adding seams to the pattern same as on the body 
part. 



Welander\s Petskscted Tailor System for Dress Cutting. 



DIAGRAM C. 



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\ 




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/ 



\ / 



Wblajtder's Perfected Tailor System for Dnnss Cutting. 

DIAGRAM C. 

The Large Sleeve, How to Draft. 



Measure arm scye 18, elbow 16, cuff 10. Extra fullness on big 
sleeve 28, lengtb 18. 



In drafting tbe sleeve use measures around arm sc} T e from 4 to Q. 



To start drafting use a square and a sheet of paper. 

Draw a line perpendicularly at A to 5 and A down. A to B is 

1 incb, A to C is one-fourth of arm scye and one-half inch. A to 5 
is half of arm scye. Draw lines B, C and 5 to B, perpendicular with 
line A. 

F is half way between C. and B. B to 8 is one inch. B to is 

2 inches. Sweep from B to Z by F as pivot. Draw a line from 
Z to 8. Shape from to 8, and Z to 8 as illustrated. B to K is 
length of sleeve. L is half way between B to B. Xow place square 
on K and F and draw line to S. K to S is half of cuff. Go in from 
line to L If incbes, then measure width at elbow. Shape from to 
elbow and down to S, and B down to S. This finishes the small sleeve, 
or the so called lining sleeve. 

To draft the large sleeve make P one-half of K to S, and sweep 
from B to B by P. Measure under sleeve from C to B. and then bal- 
ance from 5 to B. Divide 5 to R in two, which gives 7. Sweep top 
from 8 to B by T. S to K is the same as from to S. Trace out 
under sleeve on a piece of paper, and lay it to S and B. Make with 
or without under.-leeve as style prevails. This will finish this style of 
sleeve. 



Welasdeb'S PERFECTED T.ui.di; System for Dress CTttixg. 

DIAGRAM D. 

Over Garments, Jackets and Cloaks, How to Draft. 



Measures used in drafting this are the same as for Diagram A, and 
this draft is precisely the same at every point, except at 7. where shap- 
ing of armhole eomes one inch below lines and M to give more room 
for an over garment, and 1 inch is also added to the length of waist to 
make up for what is shaped below armhole at to M. At 4 it is 
Bhaped baek of 4, 3 and 5 one-fourth inch. 17 to 20 is for the Double 
Breasted Jacket and Cloak, and is from 3 to 5 inches for lap, as style 
prevails on the front. V to 20 is the same make front, straight, or to 
follow form of customer. I> to E is 6 inches opposite where the hip 
measure is used, which is applied from line 17 V buck to E. For close 
fitting ovci hips, make back ti across at E, one-eighth of one-half of 
hip measure, iride piece Z, one-sixth, side piece 10, one-sixth, and to side 
-cam 10, 11. one-twelfth of hip. For a medium loose fit over hips make 
back 6 across at E. one-sixth of one-half of hip measure. Side piece Z 
one-fourth, ride piece 10 one-fourth, and to side seam 10, 11. one-eighth 
of hip. For a lull skirt over hi|>. make baek 6 acres* at E one-fourth 
of on. -halt' of hip measure, side piece Z one-third, side piece 10 one- 
third, and to side -cam 10, 11 one-sixth of hip. This gives any style 
desired, worn one year or another, and can be regulated by named di- 
visions to reduce and increase fullness over hips. 

In joining the garment always keep side, body, back and front even 
at. armhole. leaving the unevenness at the bottom, if there should be 
any. This applies to both waist, and overgarments. Put back and 
IV. nt even at the neck, at COLLAR. 



Notice: Measure hook with printed form for each measure, 
used in cutting this system (special for this system) made in a very con- 
venient size, containing -fm l measures. All using the system will need 
one. Sent on receipt of 50 cents in cash or postoffice order. 






DIAGRAM D. 



t£?4 



U4 




WKtJL»I>EB'8 PBBFBCTKi) XAH.QB SySTKM FOB DRESS CuTTISiO. 



On Shaking. 



*■ ♦ 



In nrakinsr of better garments a few remarks may be made, and be 
of irtride to those unexperienced in the higher branches of Ladies' 
Tailoring. \j^ 

The waist, if made of loose material, would better be stayed with a 
very thin lining which has ao-starch in it whatever, and cut so it does 
not twist tUo outside cloth and not interfere with the fit of the garment. 
The front should have a soft. French liuen duek, well shrunk and 
fotnied before basted under, and a piece of haircloth padded on the duck 
in the bust part of the arm seye. The haircloth should be covered with 
a flituni 1 oi w -aiding to keep it from going through the cloth, as hair- 
cloth is apt to do this where not covered over. 

<C_ The skirt is uot much to be *aid about as to making, as every La- 
dies' Tailor aud Dressmaker have different ways of finishing same, I 
hav. had some experience with broadcloth, and where silk linings are 
used in the whole skirt. It is always best to press the skirt first before 
basting under the silk lining, and the silk Hiring fiuifthed separately. A 
irenehrlinen duck, well shrunk find prettied out, is better than hair- 
Bfch around the bottom and much cheaper. The velvet facing is 
ajwjyj better sewed on by hajjd around the bottom, as it will not wrin- 
kle and tww* so bad around the bottom after getting wet. 

The gletrt should not be pressed from the outside after the silk lin- 
- in, a* it takes the life out of the silk and gives it an unnatural 
7 .l ! sW *" > d ^ mm * a PP } «* t0 rrie pn; »t part, The lining should be 
made separate and basted in alter the coat is pressed on the outside. 
This preserves the finish on the lining and it makes the garment look 
much richer. A seam should always be pressed well from the wrong 
side, and a cotton cloth wrung out well in water and laid on top of cloth 
and sponged very lightly with a jrood, hot iron. This takes the gloss 
out of -he same from th* Wlttftfe of ttte-gnwnem. 



